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The El Reno Onion Burger

11 07 2011

Sid´s 2

Unfortunately I´m not exaggerating when I say that Norwegian restaurateurs/chefs/cooks/backyard grillers/and pretty much everyone else over here, wouldn´t know a truly great burger if the thing bit a quarter pound chunk out of their asses.

No, this doesn´t mean it´s impossible to get a good burger in Norway, but a truly great burger is a rare event. As an Oklahoman I have great burger in my blood. That does not mean there aren´t hundreds, probably thousands, of mediocre burgers, sold at restaurants around the Sooner state – each and every day.

Because there are.

There are truly great burgers in Oklahoma. El Reno is famous among foodnerds for its onion burgers, a very oniony, a tad meaty, burger, with roots going back to The Great Depression. One might think that all the El Reno Onion Burgers are great, but after a recent trip there I can assure you that although greatness is to be found, there is also not-quite-greatness.

The Onion Burger is a simple enough burger, and that´s one of the reasons greatness isn´t necessarily easy to achieve. I react to the lack of salt in most of these burgers, though the best of them achieve greatness even though they  would be even better with a touch of salt (and pepper).

In May my wife and I took a trip to El Reno one Saturday morning. We skipped breakfast, loaded up on coffee and iced tea, and took the 45 minute drive from Norman. Our goal was to try ”The Big 3” of Onion Burgers: Sid´s, Johnnie´s and Robert´s. There was a 4th Onion Burger establishment, but they had recently closed. Looking back this is fine since we were big-time stuffed after ”just” eating at the three remaining restaurants.

We started off at Sid´s. This is the legendary restaurant that foodnerds love. And the onion burgers are very good. The fries are great, even though Sid´s chooses to still call them freedom fries (Come on folks, get a grip).

What hit me first was that Sid´s burger didn´t sing. The flavors were there, but it lacked that endearing quality (yeah, singing) that puts certain foods in a class of their own. The restaurant was full and we were given a short history lesson from the woman sitting next to us (she had actually worked part time at Sid´s and was there having her Saturday brunch). A good burger, but a bit of a disappointment.

El Reno´s Onion Burger establishments are all located in the 300 block, with only a couple of streets between each of them. And as good Okies we of course drove to each of them.

Second on the list was Robert´s. The term restaurant is not really appropriate for Robert´s. Sid´s could be called a diner, but Robert´s is an even simpler place which I can fondly describe as a dive. And don´t misunderstand, I love dives.

The burger at Robert´s was simply phenomonal. It was as good as any burger I´ve ever had. This burger sang three-part harmonies that The Eagles would be hard pressed to recreate. If I was a real man I´d have stayed longer at Robert´s. I would have eaten another burger, giving me more time to try and figure out just what the hell he was doing over at that grill. You should have been there …

Last stop Johnnie´s. The first thing that struck me at Johnnie´s was the size and ”newness” of the place. And I could easily understand why Johnnie´s was still in business. They fully understand the concept of marketing, and yes, I did buy the hat.

The Onion Burger at Johnnie´s was next best on this particular Saturday. It was very well-prepared, a burger I look forward to eating next time I´m in town. This burger sang, though it did lack that last little magical element the burger at Robert´s had.

One final note: I just can´t say enough about how proud I am to be an Okie. It´s an honor to come from a place (and of course to visit a place) so dedicated to protecting its traditional foods. Hats off to all the great people keeping these traditions alive.

Check it out:

http://www.elrenoburgerday.com/

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Oklahoma Barbecue: Blowing off steam, pt. 1

06 07 2011
Mike Mills, David Klose and myself in Memphis this past May. Photo Frank Boyer

Mike Mills, David Klose and myself in Memphis this past May. Photo Frank Boyer

I´ve been wanting to let out some steam about barbecue. Two recent incidents have given me the push I need to at least let off a bit of steam.

Last week our team (The Norwegian National Barbecue Team) received their first gold medal, though this particular gold medal is in the form of a trophy with a pig on top. The category was People´s Choice and the meat was Boston butt. The reason for mentioning this is twofold. First I´m marketing the team, and the second is to in a way give myself the cred I need to comment on the barbecue situation back home.

I grew up in Oklahoma, and since pretty much day one I´ve been eating barbecue. The fact that I´ve lived in Norway for the last 30 years has not diminished my body´s being able to appreciate good barbecue. And my nearly 30 years in the restaurant business has also put me in touch with the technical side of the restaurant industry.

The definition of good barbecue

The “best” barbecue is usually cooked in people´s back yards. Competition barbecue has to look beautiful to impress the judges. Sure, the flavor and texture also have to be there, but in competition the barbecue cook is cooking for judges, and not for “just eatin´”. Backyard barbecue has no ambitions about beauty. It´s just got to taste great.

Restaurant barbecue is an entirely different story. The food must be ready to eat and is hopefully at its best over a fairly long period of time. One of the dangers of restaurant barbecue is being served food after the restaurant´s quiet period of the day, or even worse, near closing time. There can be some scary meat served in the last hour before closing time.

Restaurant barbecue also faces other challenges. One of the signs of a less-than-perfect barbecue restaurant is its side dishes. The brisket might be great, possibly the ribs or the chopped pork, but the beans or the potato salad or even the sauce, are just not up to par. It is my experience that most barbecue restaurants fall short when it comes to product. The sides or sauces are weak, and possibly some of the meats. Throw in a dose of irregular quality ingredients-wise and you´ll quickly see that running a barbecue restaurant isn´t an easy job. This blog is not about competition barbecue or backyard barbecue cooking. It´s about the restaurants.

St. Louis, Kansas City, Memphis and, uh, any old town in Oklahoma

I´ve always hated the fact that Oklahoma has never been considered one of the great barbecue spots in the South. Some of the best barbecue I´ve ever eaten has been in Oklahoma: Bob´s in Ada, Slick´s in Muskogee, Leo´s in Oklahoma City. I can also tell you that not all the barbecue served in the “important” barbecue capitols is really up to par.

It´s one thing that Memphis and Kansas City are famous for their barbecue, but even more irritating that even Lockhart Texas is more famous for its (beef) BBQ than any town in Oklahoma. And in Lockhart they hardly know what a pig looks like (They claim that even their sausages are all beef, but we know better …).

OK, incident #1: a recent trip to Oklahoma City to eat lunch at burger-meister Nic´s on North Penn. My wife and I were as usual waiting outside to get one of the thirteen coveted seats at Nic´s Grill. The gentleman in line behind us told about being a Nic´s regular since the very day they opened, and as is usual in places where people care about good food, the conversation centered around local eating establishments from “way back when” to the current day. We talked Mexican, and we talked barbecue. The sad news, which was also confirmed by several of the others waiting in line, was that there really isn´t any great barbecue to be found here anymore.

All those years in Norway haven´t given me a chance to follow the barbecue situation in Oklahoma closely, but I have also had the feeling that the times have been a changin´.

If this is the case I just have to ask “Why?”. Can it be blamed on all the crappy chain restaurants that are – well, pretty much everywhere? Is it the focus on eating “healthy” (whatever that is)? Or are there other factors? Every time I´m in Norman visiting my mother, there is a huge line at Chick Fil-A. God knows why (and I suspect that He might just be the reason …), but the lines are long before lunch, during lunch and even late afternoon when everyone is supposedly at work.

There is a new Whataburger across the street from Chick Fil-A on Main Street. The other day there was a long line of cars waiting for the chicken sandwich cows love to promote. At Whataburger there were two cars. Figure that one out.

Last fall we tried everything barbecue in Norman and found the quality generally pretty good. None of the restaurants were mind-bogglingly-fantastic and none were terrible. I could eat at any of them again, but there is only one of them that I have to eat at.

And this brings me to incident number two. My wife and I ate a late dinner at Van´s Pig Stand. I have always liked Van´s and I´ve eaten there several times. The quality is nearly always good. They are consistent (and consistency is pretty damn important) and I can easily order any of  their sides. Van´s is an outstanding barbecue restaurant that delivers the goods. If I´m going to be picky I can say that I´d prefer a slightly heavier hand when rubbing the ribs, but when I can march in there on a weekday, right before closing time, I´m plenty impressed by ribs that are juicy and with a consistency any judge could appreciate.

So maybe there is hope. In the mean time I´m stuck here in the barbecue-Sahara. I love Norway, but please: not a single restaurant serving real barbecue, including Friday´s and Hard Rock, who though they advertise serving barbecue, absolutely do NOT.

I think I´ll go now. Gotta fire up the smoker!

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Porkalicious!

03 07 2011

Pig 2Ja, jeg elsker svinekjøtt. Svinenakke er favoritten; alt som heter ribs, og skinken og koteletter og fileten. Jeg elsker bacon og svinepålegg, og alle varianter på skinke. Det er også et til stykke jeg elsker. Kjøttstykket er ytrefilet av svin, og når dette stykket blir grillet (dvs riktig-grillet), er det vanskelig å spise bedre mat.

Ytrefilet av svin har både den deilige smaken av svin, men akkurat dette stykket er på en måte litt mer finslig enn nakken. Svinenakke er godt som kotelett, og enda bedre grillet hel. Den beste metoden å tilberede en hel svinenakke på er ”low and slow”, det vil si lav temperatur og lang tid.

Ytrefileten lager jeg også etter ”low and slow” prinsippet, men dette stykket krever kortere steketid, og siden det er betraktelig mindre fett i ytrefileten, så skal den serveres mer i retning roastbiff: skåret i fine skiver.

En annen ting jeg liker med svinekjøtt er at det er ubegrensede muligheter når det gjelder å gi smak til maten. Liker du asiatisk mat? Svin er midt i blinken. Grillmat? Jepp, svin. Og noe middelhavs, eller sør-amerikansk eller neste hva det måtte være. Svin er tingen.

Alle karbo´ene passer godt til svinekjøtt. Du kan servere ris til den asiatiske retten, mens til grillet svinekoteletter er det potetsalat som er tingen. Pasta til den italienske, og godt brød til å lage sandwicher av restene!

Grillet ytrefilet av svin

Her er det indirekte grilling som teller. Du må fyr opp kun én siden av grillen. Ha kull eller briketter kun under ca. en tredjedel av grillristen. Med gassgrill er det viktig å ha minst én brenner skrudd av. Kjøttet grilles kun på den siden som er vekk fra varmekilden (dvs at du ikke trenger å svi av kjøttet). Det er også helt nødvendig å ha lokket på grillen under grillingen. Kjøttet vil få nok av farge under grillingen.

1 stykke beinfri ytrefilet av svin (3 kg), helst med et fint lag fett på …

Litt amerikansk sennep (French´s eller SW)

Paprika rub (se oppskriften under)

Paprikasmør (se oppskriften under)

Ved grillen

Legg hickory-fliser i vann i minst 30 minutter før du skal grille. Ha en håndfull med avrente hickory-fliser oppå grillkullene rett før maten skal på grillen. Suppler med mer hickory-fliser etter hvert under hele grillingen.

Grilltid: Ca. 2 timer hvis du har forholdsvis lav temperatur, men stol heller på steketermometer enn antall timer eller minutter.

1. Dekk kjøttet med et tynt lag sennep en halv time før det skal på grillen. Dryss deretter over et passe-tynt lag Paprika Rub.

2. Legg svin-ytrefileten på den kjølige delen av grillen, ha i steketermometer, og legg på lokk.

3. Ta ytrefileten ut av grillen når kjernetemperaturen er 68° C, og la den hvile i 15 minutter før den serveres. Server med paprikasmøret.

Paprika rub

Bruk gjerne røkt spansk røkt paprikapulver (Pimenton de la Vera, Dulce) i begge oppskrifter hvis du får tak i det.

1 ss havsalt

1 ss malt paprika

1 ss malt spisskummen

2 ts kvernet svart pepper

1 ts hvitløkpulver

1 ts malt koriander

1 ts malt kajennepepper

Bland sammen alle ingrediensene i en bolle. Bruk den mengden krydder du trenger. Oppbevar resten i en lufttett beholder i kjøkkenskapet.

Paprikasmør

250 g romtemperert meierismør

2 ts malt paprikapulver

2 hvitløkfedd

½ ts brunt sukker

½ ts kajennepepper

presset saft fra 1 lime

Rens hvitløk og press den med en hvitløkpresse. Bland sammen alle ingrediensene i en bolle. Lag en «pølse» av massen. Pakk «pølsen» i plastfolie og ha den i fryseren til det skal brukes.

Tips

Steketiden for svin-ytrefileten vil variere etter hvor stort stykke kjøtt du har, samt temperaturen den grilles på. Du kan pensle kjøttet med grillolje eller barbecuesaus under den siste timen av grillingen hvis du vil.

Når det gjelder dagens svine-rett så er det én ting jeg vil si. Det er lurt å investere i et digitalt steketermometer, ikke minst fordi kjøttet har best av å ligge still og rolig i grillen. Med et digitalt termometer så kan du følge med på kjernetemperaturen uten å måtte åpne grillen hele tiden. Lokket skal opp kun når du skal sjekke kullet underveis eller for å se på kjøttet – men toppen én gang i timen!

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Grillet lam etter påske? Tuller du?

24 04 2011

31For mange nordmenn betyr påskemat to ting: grilling og lam.

For mange lamme-entusiaster så betyr dette også hvitløk og rosmarin (gjerne store mengder av begge to). Og siden det først handler om lam og grill, så kan vi god snakke litt om tilbehør. Lam er en råvare vi vanligvis lager inne på kjøkkenet. Favoritten for mange er lammelår, og ja, med rosmarin og hvitløk. Klart det er godt, men hva med å bruke litt mer fantasi?

Jeg elsker ovnsbakte tomater til grillet lam, men det er heller nesten ingen potet-retter som ikke vil fungere med lammekjøtt. Selv fløtegratinerte poteter eller en god potetsalt vil være på plass som en del av et bedre lammemåltid.

Når det gjelder grønnsaker så er de fleste av dem aktuelle, selvfølgelig avhengig av tilberedningen av lammet. Ovnsbakt rotgrønnsaker vil alltid være på plass med lammelår, men alt fra fennikel til asparges til brokkoli kan brukes. Frukt kan også være interessant: appelsin, mango og aprikos er noen eksempler.

Av friske urter så kan du godt prøve alternativer til rosmarin som timian, koriander, oregano, estragon og mynte. Andre overraskende-gode ingredienser er ingefær, søtpoteter og ”julekrydder” som kanel eller nellik.

Den gode grillsmaken fungerer utmerket med lammekjøtt. Og det er utrolig hvor mye små vrier i smaken kan gi til den endelige retten. I oppskriften under er det balsamico-eddik som er den ”hemmelige” ingrediensen. Balsamico gir litt sødme og en litt syrlig smak til kjøttet, og den er kjempegod sammen med både hvitløk og rosmarin.

Vær litt ”adventurous”. Nå er påsken snart ”gjort”, og det er både lurt og kjekt å grille lam i både mai, juni og juli. De galneste av oss griller lam hele året. Blir du med?

Et slags italiensk lammelår

Lammelår med noen klassiske italienske ingredienser. Oppskriften fikk jeg fra min gode venn Paul Kirk (The Baron of Barbecue; 7 ganger verdensmester i barbecue)

8 ss balsamico

4 hvitløkfedd, presset

2 ss friske rosmarin-blad, finhakket

1 stk lammelår, gjerne beinfritt

2 ss salt

1 ss grovmalt sort pepper

VED GRILLEN

Grilltid: ca. 90  minutter

Grillmetode: delt (det vil si både direkte- og indirekte-)

Temperatur: middels høy

1. Bland sammen balsamico, hvitløk og rosmarin i en form. Legg lammelåret i formen og dekk det godt med blandingen.

2. Ha salt og pepper på kjøttet.

3. Legg kjøttet på den varme siden av grillen. Snu kjøttet når det har fått en fin farge. Få litt farge på den andre siden og legg deretter kjøttet over på den kjølige sonen av grillen. Sett i termometeren og legg på lokket. Kjøttet er ferdig når kjernetemperaturen er ca. 68-70°.

4. La kjøttet hvile i 10 minutter før det skjæres opp.

Server med gode poteter, polenta eller risotto.

Tips

Hvis du er like lite flink som – for eksempel – meg – så kan du be slakteren om å beine ut lammelåret for deg. Jeg bruker en (beinsolid) 20 minutter. Han klarer seg fint med 3 – 4 minutter. Spørs hvor god tid du har.

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”Sunt” is the new ”godt”

20 03 2011

imagesJeg kommer til å ha det langt mindre travelt enn mange andre folk når jeg skal i butikken for å handle inn mat. Grunnen til dette er at jeg kommer ikke til å bruke ett sekund for å lete etter Nøkkelhullet-produkter. Kommer ikke til å gjøre det nå; heller ikke senere.

På samme måten som ”Godt norsk” for meg alltid betydd ”mye norsk med  varierende grad av godt”, så skal jeg ikke bry meg om råvarene jeg kjøper har kommet gjennom nøkkelhullet. Jeg kommer helt sikkert til å plukke opp et Nøkkelhull-produkt i ny og ne, men uten at jeg selv merker det.

Det at jeg er skeptisk til slike tiltak kommer av oppveksten min. Jeg er helt sikkert på at bestemoren min Pokey bare hadde ledd hvis noen skulle fortelle henne hvilke råvarer og matprodukter som var gode nok for hennes familie.

Selv om de beste intensjoner sikkert står bak Nøkkelhullet-prosjektet, så kan jeg kun delvis støtte det. To eksempler på dette har med produktene å gjøre. På den ene siden så skal alle godkjente kjøttprodukter inneholde maks 10 g fett per 100 g, noe som utelukker så å si alt jeg liker at kjøtt, nesten alt som er godt av kjøtt (utenom enkelte kylling-, kalkun- og svineprodukter), og som bidrar til å fjerne glede fra en hvilken som helst middagstallerken.

Det andre eksemplet er ferdigretter. En frossen pizza, av en nesten hvilken som helst kvalitet, kan godkjennes som Nøkkelhull-produkt så lenge den har ”nok” frukt og grønt (25 g per 100 g), og maks 30% av energiinnholdet kommer av fett, og at den inneholde minst 250 kcal per persjon. Jeg kan ta med resten: pizzaen skal ha mindre enn maks 3 g per 100 g med tilsatt sukker, og salt (eller natrium) på maks 0,5 g per 100 g. Og hvis ikke dette var (rent smaksmessig, tradisjonsmessig, og gledesmessig) utfordring nok, så må (ja MÅ) pizzaen inneholde en viss mengde fullkorn.

Den enkleste måten for Italia å fjerne hr. Bersculoni på vil være at han prøver å tvinge slike regler på pizzabakerne i Italia.

Problemet #1 er at jeg savner helt gleden av å spise, gleden av å kna en deig eler rør i en suppe som man har laget selv. ”Sunt” is the new ”godt”, og dette er virkelig synd når man tenker på Norges allerede små-scary matsituasjon.

Kvernet kjøtt

Ordet kjøttdeig har alltid plaget meg litt. Selv den groveste brøddeigen er tross alt en deig. Jeg liker bedre ideen at kjøttet blir kvernet (helst grovkvernet), istedenfor at det skal være en glatt deig (husker du de gamle plast-tuber med finmalt kjøtt som også heter kjøttdeig?)

Jeg tar med to oppskrifter for kvernet kjøtt. Begge retter kommer fra barndommen min, og begge to finnes heldigvis fortsatt i dag. Jeg er glad for og stolt over at folk i USA er så stolt av sin tradisjonsmat, om det er cioppino (fisk- og skalldyrsuppe) fra San Francisco, gumbo fra New Orleans eller barbecue fra – vel – det meste av den sørlige delen av Estados Unidos.

Dagens oppskrifter er for Chili Dogs (rett og slett en pølse på brød toppet med en saus som er nærmeste slekt til chili con carne). Den skal i tillegg ha revet ost, revet løk og amerikansk sennep på. Her skal du slite hvis du er Nøkkelhull-fiksert, men løken slipper iallfall gjennom.

Den andre oppskriften laget jeg i går, og det er en del år siden sist. Retten heter Sloppy Joe, og jeg måtte bare smile når jeg gjorde et forsøk om å holde den sammen mens jeg spist den. Det er kanskje alder, men jeg gjorde et par justeringer på min Sloppy Joe-oppskrift, en oppskrift jeg har brukt helt tilbake til tidlig 80-tallet

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No Mo´ RA

19 03 2011

Jeg har skrevet matspalte i Rogalands Avis i snart 20 år; faktisk over 800 spalter. Jeg har tenkt lenge at jeg vil slutte, ikke minst for å bruke mer tid på bloggene og andre skrive-prosjekter. Her er siste RA-spalten, og jeg regner med at det kommer noe mer på denne siden i løpet av noen få dager.


Enkelt & Greit

19. mars 2011

All good things come to an end.

I dag er siste gang jeg skriver matspalte i RA. Jeg husker ikke helt når den første artikkelen så dagens lys, men det var i første halvdelen av 90-tallet. Her snakker vi om det siste tiåret i det 20. århundre og ikke minst i det forrige milleniet.

I den første halvdelen av 90-tallet var grunge stort på musikkfronten. Det samme gjelder artister som Celine Dion og Spice Girls. Det store på tv var Seinfeld, Friends og Frasier, og for andre var det 90210 og Baywatch.

Jeg må også nevne andre klassiske 90-talls ikoner som Pokemon, den forrige finanskrisen og oppstarten av Starbuck´s.

Og nå, snart tjue år senere, er det nok. Det er mange grunner til at jeg vil videre, noen av dem kommer jeg sikkert tilbake til i ”memoarene”. I dag er det som sagt siste artikkel, og denne artikkelen er til alle dere som leser matspalten, ikke minst dere som har fulgt med i mange år. Jeg vil gjerne gi hver av dere en stor klem, men av praktiske årsaker, må jeg heller si det istedenfor å faktisk gjøre det.

Dagens matsituasjon

Det er en litt spesiell tid i matens verden. De fleste av os spiser ikke alltid slik vi burde ha spist. Folk har det travelt i 2011, ofte for travelt til å ville sette av tid til å lage mat. Mange av dem som lager mat sparer seg til helgen, og da ofte kun én av dagene. Men, faktisk har vi tid. Problemet er prioriteringen.

Mange folk vil ikke bruke særlig mye penger på mat. Jepp, et av verdens rikeste land er samme land som bruker prosentvis svært lite på mat. Det er en fin ting at man skal bruke pengene på en fornuftig måte, men det er en finere ting å handle inn gode råvarer for å lage et godt måltid. Ikke nødvendigvis hver dag, men ”så ofte som mulig”.

For meg er skrekkscenario #1 det at mange norske barn vokser opp i et hjem der mat ikke har noen sentral rolle. Det er skammelig at en dårlig frossen pizza skal være referansepunktet for ”noe godt å spise”. Det at barn stadig vekk ikke spiser frokost eller har med seg matpakke, er utilgivelig. Når disse samme barna i tillegg ikke har ordentlige rutiner for middagsspising, så sier det seg selv at vi har et problem. Her er jeg nødt til igjen å nevne den ufattelig dårlige holdningen som så å si alle politikere har til disse problemene. Til dem vil jeg bare si at en varm lunsj på skolen er en varm lunsj på skolen. Å ”virke engasjert” i temaet i forkant av et valg er ikke det samme som å få maten servert. Vi har sett nok i det siste om hvordan de eldre blir ”passet på”. Problemet er ikke et hakk bedre når det gjelder barna.

Heldigvis så finnes det noen lyspunkt. Det er mange folk som jobber hardt med å forbedre vår matsituasjon. Og det er dette som er viktig. Vi trenger folk som bryr seg. Vi trenger folk som er villig til å gjøre en jobb. Og jeg lover dere, kjære lesere, at jeg som alltid skal jobbe med saken.

Thank you and good evening.

E-post: craig@craig.no

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Yeah, way worse than Mamma Mia

08 01 2011

Two serious issues before jumping in head first: The first was a pact with myself, promising never – ever ever ever – to see the film Mamma Mia. Meryl Streep is all right, but Mother Mary herself couldn´t fix a so-totally-broken film based on music from those superslickswedes Abba. I vowed not to see the film – but was lured in. It´s a tragic story, but in the end the only one to blame was myself.

chilli 1The other issue is a venture I will be starting this coming week. I have again been lured, this time by a couple of my buddies: chef Stig and ex-cook Robbie. To make things perfectly clear, Stig is Norwegian and Robbie is Canadian. I am, of course, Okie, and there´s the rub. Stig and Robbie made the chili con carne recipe from the famous chef Heston Blumenthal. Blumenthal is maybe not Gordon Ramsey-famous, but in the world of fine dining, he´s right up there with Ramsay, Ducasse and the others. Heston Blumenthal is, by the way, British. The combination of gourmet chef and being British is for any good Southerner kind of like having your wife change the spark plugs on your monster car or believing that Bernie Madoff didn´t really do it.

My present dilemma is that Robbie and Stig want me to join them in making Blumenthal´s “Chilli con Carne” (the British spelling of such a great dish kind of sums up the whole thing for me). And in best Mamma Mia tradition I have agreed. The driving force for me is making the chili, tasting it and at that very moment knowing that all I know and believe about chili is as it always has been. I am completely confident that this will be the case, so why not?

chilli 2

Blumenthal´s gourmet chili is based on his experience from visiting a (as in one) chili cookoff in the States. I believe said cookoff took place in Washington DC – another strike for good ole boy Heston. One can either make chili or can not make it. I´m a can, about to be surrounded by can-wannabes. Heston Blumenthal´s chili takes several days to make, and the ingredient list includes among other things cherry tomatoes, (lots of) Jack Daniel´s, carrots, red wine, chives, tarragon and organic kidney beans. Some of you make think it´s ok to have beans in your chili, but (here with the sound of my father and other long-gone chiliheads spinning in their graves) those of us with great chili wisdom and experience, know better.

We´ll make the dish here in my kitchen this week. I´m ready. Bring it on boys. I will keep the rest of you posted on my Facebook page. And by the way, the soundtrack for our cooking will be 100% Americana: Tool, Band of Horses and the like. No Canadian stuff, nothing Norwegian and not a Beatle or Stone in sight. Wish me luck.

chilli 3

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Norges beste kalkun. Really, trust me.

08 12 2010
This is the "before" picture ...

This is the "before" picture ...

Det er klart at mat-tradisjoner er viktige. Jeg vet ikke hvilken julemat man spiser i Australia eller i Portugal, men jeg vet at folk vil slåss hardt så lenge det er julemat det er snakk om.

Jeg blir ordentlig provosert av folk som mener at kalkun er uspiselige tørre greier. Dette fordi jeg vet at det eneste som mangler er at samme folket blir servert kalkun laget av noen som kan lage den.

Kalkun kan jeg.

Julekalkunmiddagen er årets høydepunkt (vel, sammen med årets første skikkelige grillmåltid), og du kan lage steingod kalkun hvis du følger de råd som jeg gir deg i dag. Klipp ut denne artikkelen og få den rammet inn. Her er alt du trenger å vite om det store jule (eller nyttårs-) måltidet.

Oppskriftene:

Stuffing

1 porsjon maisbrød (se under)

2 ss olje

2 løk, hakkede

1/2 kg breakfast sausage (se oppskriften under)

3 dl hakkede pekannøtter

3 ss tørket salvie (eller 1/2 bunt frisk salvie)

ca. 6–8 dl varm melk, kyllingkraft eller smeltet usaltet smør (helst en blanding av alle tre)

1. Smul maisbrød i en stor bolle.

2. Varm olje i en stekepanne og stek løken i oljen til den er gjennomsiktig.

3. Tilsett breakfast sausage og stek videre til den er brun (den må ikke være for mye stekt).

4. Ha i pekannøttene og stek i 1 minutt til.

5. Rør i salvie.

6. Hell denne blandingen over i bollen med maisbrødsmulene og bland godt sammen.

7. Ha i nok væske (varm melk/kyllingkraft/smeltet smør) til stuffingen så vidt henger sammen.

Maisbrød

2 1/2 dl hvetemel

2 1/2 dl polentamel (finnes i de fleste velassorterte matbutikker)

2 ss sukker

4 ts bakepulver

3/4 ts salt

2 egg

2 1/2 dl helmelk

4 ss vegetabilsk olje (eller mais-, soya- eller peanøttolje)

Forvarm ovnen til 200° C.

1. Bland sammen mel, polentamel, sukker, bakepulver og salt i en bolle.

2. Ha egg, melk, og olje i melblandingen og bland lett sammen (ikke bry deg om det blir noen klumper).

3. Hell deigen over i en smurt springform.

4. Stek brødet midt i ovnen i ca 20 – 25 minutter, til det er gyllenbrunt.

Breakfast Sausage

500 g svinedeig

1 ts salt

1/2 ts kvernet sort pepper

1 ss frisk salvie (alt. 1 ts tørket salvie)

1/4 ts malt paprika

1/2 ts sukker

1/4 ss chili-flak (eller 1/8 ts kajennepepper)

ca. 4 ss vann

1. Bland sammen alle ingrediensene i en bolle.

2. Bruk bare nok vann til at farsen holder sammen og at den ikke blir klissete.

3. Pakk farsen godt inn i plastfolie og legg den i kjøleskapet i minst 1 time før bruk.

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The hell you say?

15 11 2010

imagesI had a great time in the States this fall. The only real bummer, other than a couple of scary restaurant experiences, was the mid-term elections. The Republicans won pretty much everything, but worse than the losses were some of the things said about President Obama by the extreme far right.

My own close encounter with this species was at a late night keeping of the flame making barbecue in eastern Oklahoma. One of the locals (un, one of the inebriated locals) exclaimed (basically to himself since nobody, including me, could be seen: “The hell you say? How the hell can we have a president with a name like Obama?”.

I received this article from a good friend of mine and want to share it with you:

America – He’s your President for Goodness Sake!

By William Thomas
Posted: Friday, October 1st, 2010

There was a time not so long ago when Americans, regardless of their political stripes, rallied round their president. Once elected, the man who won the White House was no longer viewed as a Republican or Democrat, but the President of the United States. The oath of office was taken, the wagons were circled around the country’s borders and it was America versus the rest of the world with the president of all the people at the helm.

Suddenly President Barack Obama, with the potential to become an exceptional president has become the glaring exception to that unwritten, patriotic rule.

Four days before President Obama’s inauguration, before he officially took charge of the American government, Rush Limbaugh boasted publicly that he hoped the president would fail. Of course, when the president fails the country flounders. Wishing harm upon your country in order to further your own narrow political views is selfish, sinister and a tad treasonous as well.

Subsequently, during his State of the Union address, which is pretty much a pep rally for America, an unknown congressional representative from South Carolina, later identified as Joe Wilson, stopped the show when he called the President of the United States a liar. The president showed great restraint in ignoring this unprecedented insult and carried on with his speech. Speaker Nancy Pelosi was so stunned by the slur, she forgot to jump to her feet while clapping wildly, 30 or 40 times after that.

Last spring, President Obama took his wife Michelle to see a play in New York City and republicans attacked him over the cost of security for the excursion. The president can’t take his wife out to dinner and a show without being scrutinized by the political opposition? As history has proven, a president in a theatre without adequate security is a tragically bad idea.
Remember: “Apart from that, Mrs. Lincoln, how did you enjoy the play?”

At some point, the treatment of President Obama went from offensive to ugly and then to downright dangerous.
The health-care debate, which looked more like extreme fighting in a mud pit than a national dialogue, revealed a very vulgar side of America.

President Obama’s face appeared on protest signs white-faced and blood-mouthed in a satanic clown image. In other tasteless portrayals, people who disagreed with his position distorted his face to look like Hitler complete with mustache and swastika.
Odd, that burning the flag makes Americans crazy, but depicting the president as a clown and a maniacal fascist is accepted as part of the new rude America.

Maligning the image of the leader of the free world is one thing, putting the president’s life in peril is quite another. More than once, men with guns were videotaped at the health-care rallies where the president spoke. Again, history shows that letting men with guns get within range of a president has not served America well in the past.

And still the “birthers” are out there claiming Barack Obama was not born in the United States, although public documentation proves otherwise. Hawaii is definitely part of the United States, but the Panama Canal Zone where his electoral opponent Senator John McCain was born? Nobody’s sure.

Last month, a 44-year-old woman in Buffalo was quite taken by President Obama when she met him in a chicken wing restaurant called Duff’s. Did she say something about a pleasure and an honour to meet the man or utter encouraging words for the difficult job he is doing? No.

Quote: “You’re a hottie with a smokin’ little body.”  Lady, that was the President of the United States you were addressing, not one of the Jonas Brothers! He’s your president for goodness sakes, not the guy driving the Zamboni at “Monster Trucks On Ice.” Maybe next it’ll be, “Take Your President To A Topless Bar Day.”

In President Barack Obama, Americans have a charismatic leader with a good and honest heart. Unlike his predecessor, he’s a very intelligent leader. And unlike that president’s predecessor, he’s a highly moral man.

In President Obama, Americans have the real deal, the whole package and a leader that citizens of almost every country around the world look to with great envy. Given the opportunity, Canadians would trade our leader, hell, most of our leaders for Obama in a heartbeat.

What America has in Obama is a head of state with vitality and insight and youth. Think about it, Barack Obama is a young Nelson Mandela.  Mandela was the face of change and charity for all of Africa but he was too old to make it happen. The great things Obama might do for America and the world could go on for decades after he’s out of office.
America, you know not what you have.

The man is being challenged unfairly, characterized with vulgarity and treated with the kind of deep disrespect to which no previous president was subjected. It’s like the day after electing the first black man to be president, thereby electrifying the world with hope and joy, Americans sobered up and decided the bad old days were better.

President Obama may fail but it will not be a Richard Nixon default fraught with larceny and lies. President Obama, given a fair chance, will surely succeed but his triumph will never come with a Bill Clinton caveat – “if only he’d got control of that zipper.”
Please. Give the man a fair, fighting chance. This incivility toward the leader who won over Americans and gave hope to billions of people around the world that their lives could be enhanced by his example, just naturally has to stop.

Believe me, when Americans drive by the White House and see a sign on the lawn that reads: “No shirt. No shoes. No service,” they’ll realize this new national rudeness has gone way, way too far.

OCTOBER 2010 SENIOR LIVING MAGAZINE VANCOUVER & LOWER MAINLAND

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To screw or to be screwed, that is the question

24 10 2010

Nic´s Grill

This past May I promised to take up what I consider to be a fundemental problem in the restaurant industry in Norway: Can Norwegian restaurants charge their customers what the dining experience is really worth? This question also has a darker side: Do Norwegian restaurants charge their customers what the dining experience is worth?

I´ll start with two recent visits to restaurants, not in Norway but in Oklahoma. I am currently residing in the city of Norman, home of the University of Oklahoma. Oklahoma is not New York or San Francisco, but it´s a hell of a good place to eat good food.

Othello´s & Nic´s

I should have known. The restaurant was called Othello´s, the kind of name that should trigger the ”Uh oh” switch in the brain of anyone remotely connected to the food industry. But with the underlying ”family-owned”, ”casual”, ”some of the state´s best Italian food” and ”since 1973”, I figured it was worth a try.

What could I have been thinking? I should be hung by the toes. This was hands down one of the worst dining experiences ever. And I mean ever. The details: horrible food (I would go as far as to say fucking horrible food), service (better said, the lack thereof), and so on, is not really worth getting into. Words can not truly describe the horrors …

The root of the problems with Othello´s is actually quite simple: a total lack of interest in giving the guest a positive dining experience. Somebody at Othello´s may think they are doing a great job, and for all I know maybe they did back in 1973. But this in not remotely the case today.

The general idea for running a restaurant goes like this: prepare some good food, offer something good to drink as well; service which is friendly and suitably efficient, a comfortable atmosphere, and at a decent price directly related to the costs involved.

This is the original formula, even though there are lots of variations on the theme. Some will go nerdy with ingredients, which can also affect the price level, and others staff their restaurant with extremely qualified staff or use lots of resources to create a unique atmosphere. And on and on. But the principles are pretty much always the same.

The worst restaurants are not the ones who try and fail, it´s the ones who just don´t give a damn. Trying to make Michelin star food can be a noble enough affair, but even the ones who already have the stars don´t always deliver the goods. It´s an entirely different story when the kitchen is staffed by slackers who don´t know the difference between a potato and a salmon filet. And unfortunately it is still legal (both in the US and in Norway) to do a mindblowingly terrible job.

Thank God for Nic´s

A couple of days after the Othello-experience, it was time for a much-anticipated visit to Nic´s Grill in Oklahoma City. Nic´s is a tiny (13 seat) diner serving breakfast and lunch from Monday – Friday (Nic is one of the few restaurant owners who understands what a great idea ”weekends off” really is.

Nic´s menu is simple: a limited number of breakfast items, burgers, and a daily special such as fried chicken or meatloaf.

Nic has fully understood the formula for running a great restaurant. The decor is simple, the food to die for, the iced tea is great and the service (just Nic and one assistent) is as friendly as friendly can be.

I wish I could bottle and sell the kind of dining experience that a place like Nic´s offers. I´d be a rich man. Until then I´m perfectly satisfied with eating at the Nic´s in this world – preferably as often as possible.

Back home in Norway

What really irks me in Norway is not the Othello-experience. It may exist but I haven´t found it. What does exist is the idea of offering a dining experience based on the following principle: trendy interior, trendy service, trendy drinking and poor quality food – at jaw-dropping high prices. These places do unfortunately exist, and when I´m met with at best boring food, priced according to the guests´ threshold of pain, I want to kill.

My most recent experience with this type of restaurant was in Stavanger. I ordered an ”Asian” noodle and shrimp dish (by the way at a highly succesfull trend spot). There were 3 lonely shrimp and veggie remnants, in a bath of sauce which had 0 grams salt and flavor reminiscent of the water the overcooked noodles were cooked in.

I won´t even get into the egg ”thing” my wife ate (here again at a dizzying price). What was even more shocking was that we were nearly alone in the restaurant. But I can´t really blame the totally uninspired kitchen help for the experience. The problem is that the the owners have made a conscious decision about portions, ingredients, and of course pricing. It´s one thing to make a profit, and everybody doing a good job deserves a profit. But this is a whole other bag of nuts.

Shame on you!

The following weekend I decided to do a little test. I generally order a meat-base dish from my favorite Chinese take away restaurant Far East Takeaway. This time I ordered a main course with shrimp. The result was as expected: 8 large juicy shrimp, crispy fresh veggies, and an excellent sauce, all very well-prepared. And rice. The price? Nearly 20 kroner (that´s about five bucks) less than I had paid just days before … Sure, the interior of Far East is on the simple side, but it´s clean. The service: as always cheerful and spot on.

There is actually an even more disturbing problem in the Norwegian restaurant industry: dozens of great restaurants living a pipe dream existence, with great food and wine, talented people in the kitchen and in the restaurant, yep all the right elements – except one. These restaurants (except for a very few) do not – and even more importantly can not – charge their guests what the experience is really worth.

The economics of running a restaurant are complicated, but at the same time very simple: What comes in must harmonize with what´s going out. This is a subject that I, as an ex-restaurateur, could talk about for days, but in the end it´s the old in/out formula that rules.

I have a number of friends in ”the business” who have struggled (and in the end, often failed) because there just wasn´t enough coming in to keep the ship afloat. I have discussed restaurant pricing with people who do not work in restaurants, and it´s amazing to see their reactions. Often it is one negative experience or another which first comes up, and there is a strange unwillingness to discuss the fact that a multi-course meal with wine costing 1200 kroner, should in reality cost 1600 kroner or more. But the restaurateur knows that he or she must keep prices at a minimum to keep them coming through the door.

Norwegians are funny that way. Here we live in one of the riches countries in the world, but when it comes to eating many Norwegians get all weird. They don´t use much money on food. They don´t use much in the grocery store, and in the restaurant they are willing to accept paying 150 kroner for dishwater shrimp, but not willing to pay what it costs for truly great food.

Who are making the big bucks in the restaurant business? Is it the hardworking chef selling his or her dining experience at a low enough price to try and attract a few extra guests each day? No way. It´s the restaurant owners who fill their venues with hordes of people who accept (or could it be desire?) the mediocre.

In the real world people have to think about survival. Maybe we shouldn´t blame the beady-eyed restaurateurs with their pockets full. A solid economic foundation is a good and important thing. Maybe the struggling chefs should reconsider what they are doing, and who knows, maybe there is hope that the future´s restaurant customers will appreciate and be willing to pay the cost to keep the great restaurants alive.

Each of us has the right to choose where and what to eat. Each of us can choose a frozen pizza over a homemade pizza. We can raise our kids in an environment where food has no central roll. We can continue to elect politicians who couldn´t care less what our children eat at school. In the end it is we who create the world we live in, and I am damn sure how I want my world to look.

For the moment though, it´s all about screwing or getting screwed. Many great restauants struggle year after year, often until even struggling can´t help anymore, while others expect us to bend over and take it like a man. I´m tired of the Othello´s and I´m tired of bending over.

Three cheers to people like Nic and all the unsung heroes banging it out in the restaurant kitchens in Oslo, Trondheim and other Norwegian cities. The world would be a much sadder place without you.

Here is a little video from Nic´s Grill:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mawsQgNVOuI

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